Wednesday, July 20, 2005

bologna

I'm beginning to think my choice of blog address wasn't very well thought out. First, I'm not in Rome anymore, and second, I'm settled into Bologna for a long haul.
which makes me very happy.

Knowing that I can buy houseplants or install hooks in the wall or put a print on the wall changes the whole experience of being here. Living here. I have a kitchen, I don't use someone else's kitchen. Right now I have the apartment to myself: one roommate just left and the other doesn't arrive for some weeks.

everyone wants to show me something or teach me something.
Letizia introduced me to a Sicilian gelateria where we had watermelon-jasmine gelato. They also make bergamot-jasmine, fennel seed, pistachio-almond, ginger.... dangerously good stuff.

Zimmi and Jacopo insist that despite my ability to recite the ingredients of a real ragu, and the way to make a good broth, I know nothing about Bolognese cuisine and have to be tutored over dinners.

My archivist gives me big smiles when I arrive in the morning and starts in on a lecture about the Italian left in the late 40's or the pagan origins of Ferragosto.

Enrico taught me the history of the Cassero, the national seat of Arcigay and the most incredible nightclub I've ever seen in the city's historic salt market, the story behind radio kappa centrale, and explained his coffee dependence stems from when he was 3 years old, when he'd make his cappuccino and smoke a cigarette while his mom cooked lunch.

Alvise has introduced me to everyone, gotten me involved in a video project by a collective of artists, taken me out to an agriturismo restaurant in the hills above the city with his friends....

I'm busy and content to be settling here.

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